Conker Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Well, odds are it isn't random. For the last three days, I've turned my PC on, used it a bit, and then had it shut off on me without me doing anything. It turns itself back on after a few seconds, and if I open my browser, everything I was doing is saved. It's starting to worry me/drive me batshit. Specs are: Windows 10 Intel Core i5-4430 CPU 3.00GHz processor (those are numbers and letters!) 12 Gigs of RAM Card is an NVidia Geforce GTX 970 If you need other info, let me know. Anyhow, I installed a temp program to see if I'm running too hot, and everything seems fine. Nothing above like 36 Celsius. I also made sure to turn automatic updates/installs off since I guess Windows 10 will just reboot when things are ready whether you are or not. I mean fuck, I didn't even want the browser; it just showed up one day. My PC DOES run pretty loud. Harddrive clicks a lot, but it's done that since the day I bought it, which was last year Christmas. Haven't had this problem until then. Only thing I can think of is that it could be a power supply issue, but if today is a repeat of yesterday, then my PC will be fine until I turn it off tonight. I do wonder if there's something up with the connection between my power button and the power itself. Usually if I have to move it and unplug everything, it takes a few goes for it to turn on. Power button doesn't work right away. It's also been that way since pretty much the day I bought it, and after some cursing it's fine. I would assume that's just a loose connection though. Anyhow, thoughts? Hope nothing is wrong with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Endless/Nameless Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 1 minute ago, Conker said: I would assume that's just a loose connection though. First impression? Almost certainly something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 Just now, Endless/Nameless said: First impression? Almost certainly something like that. I HAVE gone in and tried to tighten it, but only between the button and the cord itself, not where the cord goes. DO you think that might be the culprit here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onnes Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Do any errors show up in Event Viewer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Endless/Nameless Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Just now, Conker said: I HAVE gone in and tried to tighten it, but only between the button and the cord itself, not where the cord goes. DO you think that might be the culprit here? Sounds to me more like something something is "loose" elsewhere and triggering sleep mode. Like a false signal that the lid is closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 Don't suppose any of you could tell me what I'm looking for in this Event Viewer. Never had to use it before. 1 hour ago, 6tails said: Power switch is faulty, or PSU is failing, or your VRMs are overheating and causing power delivery issues, most likely causes. The auto-restart is likely BIOS/UEFI set to power-on after power failure, when possible. I don't know what you just said, but it sounds dreadful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 @6tails assuming I followed your directions right, the event log is empty. No hardware events listed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onnes Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 6 minutes ago, Conker said: @6tails assuming I followed your directions right, the event log is empty. No hardware events listed. "Hardware Events" are for additional device specific events. It's usually empty unless you've specifically configured it. The easiest view is just "Custom Views" and then "Administrative Events". It has the most important types visible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recel Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 4 hours ago, Conker said: Only thing I can think of is that it could be a power supply issue, but if today is a repeat of yesterday, then my PC will be fine until I turn it off tonight. I do wonder if there's something up with the connection between my power button and the power itself. Usually if I have to move it and unplug everything, it takes a few goes for it to turn on. Power button doesn't work right away. It's also been that way since pretty much the day I bought it, and after some cursing it's fine. I would assume that's just a loose connection though. That is a sign of a bad capacitor. Though the "from the day I bought it" is more troubling. What kind and how powerful power supply do you use? Also, how old is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 59 minutes ago, Recel said: That is a sign of a bad capacitor. Though the "from the day I bought it" is more troubling. What kind and how powerful power supply do you use? Also, how old is it? Not sure on the brand. PC is pretty new. Bit over two years 2 hours ago, Onnes said: "Hardware Events" are for additional device specific events. It's usually empty unless you've specifically configured it. The easiest view is just "Custom Views" and then "Administrative Events". It has the most important types visible. Here is what comes up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 17 hours ago, 6tails said: The 'Critical' Kernel Power (Event ID 41) is typical shutdown without using the shutdown command. I'm more interested in the yellow warning two lines above that, with the Event ID of 219. http://social.technet.microsoft.com/wiki/contents/articles/3164.event-id-219-windows-kernel-pnp.aspx This alludes to a driver issue. If you're using all stock drivers, you might want to get the actual manufacturer/branded drivers. Outdated chipset drivers will cause this sort of problem. You mean like for my graphics card or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 7 minutes ago, 6tails said: For your motherboard chipset. This will be fun since my PC just turned off again. It's an MSI motherboard though. Gotta navigate their site before I lose it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 3 minutes ago, 6tails said: Good luck! Also, I suggest disabling things like MSI Afterburner or similar stuff. Wonderful. Can't get the model number off of the System Info screen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 4 minutes ago, 6tails said: download CPU-Z and that'll tell you what you need to know Which ones do I want? https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/support/Z97-PC-Mate.html#down-driver&Win10 64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 12 minutes ago, 6tails said: The top SATA/ACHI and the bottom System Chipset drivers. Got em both. Hopefully this fixes everything. Appreciate the help. And if my PC keeps borking, I'll be hoping for more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Just now, 6tails said: I'll be here. Might not reply instantly if I'm not near the computer/don't hear the notification sound. It's fine. Was funny. Had some major PC problems at work (BSOD) and went to ask the IT guy about what was going on with my comp and then stopped because I know how fucking ragefilled IT people can get when you bring up your home devices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Just now, 6tails said: We rage about home devices because most of us have the mindset of "if you don't know how it works you shouldn't own/use it in the first place." I can't learn unless I ask D: But that's a valid point, even if most people don't know fuckall about their desktops. I know more than most, but I"m still a fucking idiot. At least I can put the lil cunts together though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Just now, 6tails said: If you can do that much you gain about 300% more respect from IT staff. Most people now days couldn't even figure out how to clean a ball-operated mouse. Was a nice high putting this PC together (first one) and having it work when I pressed the power button Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 45 minutes ago, 6tails said: I wonder how well you'd do with an older computer. I'm talking 80s/early 90s era. I once saw dinosaur bones at a museum. I bet it's like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 27 minutes ago, 6tails said: Close enough. Everything now days is color-coded and software-defined. Back in my day, you had to manually assign IRQs and DMAs by jumpers on the hardware itself. Overclocking was moving a jumper to a new position and praying you didn't let out magic smoke. Your freaking sound cards had expandable memory slots, your motherboard had cache add-on slots, and your freaking processor plugged in and came out with quite a bit of effort - you had to pray you didn't break a pin. That sounds insane. For how crazy and messy the inside of a computer looks, at least things fit together pretty easily. It's very streamlined. Plus, if you have any questions there's Google at your fingertips. Wonder how they'll look in twenty years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 5 hours ago, 6tails said: Has your problem been resolved? No. Just happened again. I"m pretty sure it's a power issue. Turned off, tried to turn back on, didn't, then did on its second try. First idea is to open it and check the wire connections. Second is to get a new power supply. Any brands you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowPitchFart Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 35 minutes ago, Conker said: First idea is to open it and check the wire connections. Second is to get a new power supply. Any brands you recommend? Corsair is lovely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 Replaced the power supply (bought one at Best Buy (don't remember which brand but it was certified)) and so far no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 It looks like it might be doing this again. Twice in two days I came back and my PC was turned off. Event viewer says it crashed or lost power. New PSU is only a month and some change old. Got any other diagnostic stuff I can run? So far I haven't seen it shut off, but i imagine it's only going to get worse. @6tails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 So having this happen again, I opened up the computer and maybe found the problem. The 24 piece plug that goes into the motherboard doesn't clip down. I can't push it in any further, or I don't think I can, but it needs to go a little further to engage the plastic clip and stay in place. I'm thinking this is coming too loose from fans or something and the computer is turning off. Will try electrical tape when I can get ahold of some. I may also change teh battery on the motherboard, though the motherboard is pretty new. Still, cheap fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 2 minutes ago, 6tails said: Changing mobo battery won't fix the issue. That just keeps BIOS/EFI settings stored since those aren't using NVRAM. You likely CAN push that plug block in further to make it lock in place. Unplug it and try re-plugging it. Don't be afraid to use force, those motherboards can take a fair bit if they're actually fastened down to the risers and case. Alright. Well, if it happens again anyways. I got it up and running. The cable can pop out really, really easily as I found out, so I'm guessing this is the problem. Or I fucking hope so since I don't want to have to replace the fucking motherboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Just now, 6tails said: This is likely. Heat in a system can work connections loose over time. I've had SATA cables pop out and lock my computer right up (despite SATA supposedly having hot-swap capability.) I used a good amount of force and couldn't get the fucker in all the way, but maybe not enough force. MOBO feels fragile. It's suspended a bit, but enough to get the tip of a finger underneath. Just really worried I'll break it, which is why I figure electrical tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Just now, 6tails said: That's the proper clearance for electrical isolation fro the mounting back board. Sure it feels flimsy but the connector should lock into place and be fully seated against the block. If it's not, pinch it down, get your fingers under the block on the board for leverage and support. Will do next time it shuts off or tomorrow before I turn it on. Worried now, since I'll be working in FL Studio tonight and don't want to lose anything i make >.< Unlike Word, that program does not autosave as you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Just now, 6tails said: It's always had a sort of autosave feature since I used old 3.56 FL standard. Holy fucking gamechanger, Batman D: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augmented Husky Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Definitely sounds PSU or motherboard related as others have said. Also check if any capacitors are swollen on the top since that means its blown. There's also the small chance the case power switch is knocked loose in a way to shut down the PC like your saying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 1 hour ago, Augmented Husky said: Definitely sounds PSU or motherboard related as others have said. Also check if any capacitors are swollen on the top since that means its blown. There's also the small chance the case power switch is knocked loose in a way to shut down the PC like your saying Will do when I crack it back open tomorrow. Will also look up what a capacitor looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draconas Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 bit of a necro but looking for those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sasha'rgo Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 On 8/21/2016 at 3:12 PM, 6tails said: Don't be afraid to use force, those motherboards can take a fair bit if they're actually fastened down to the risers and case. Just remember what you're flexing, eight+ layers of copper traces and planes that are tens of micrometres (1-6m / 1-3inches) thick. Mounting holes and burrs from mounting are usually covered when flexed or crushed if no power or signal traces run in or under them. On 8/21/2016 at 6:29 PM, Augmented Husky said: Also check if any capacitors are swollen on the top since that means its blown. Switch mode power supply caps that litter the motherboard and secondary side of the PSU can go out of spec with high equivalent series resistance (ESR) long before a vent blows, and cause voltage ripple long before they enter a condition where thermal runaway. This can only be truly determined by desoldering the suspect caps, and measuring with a suitable ESR meter however.. That is, if they are not polymer solid caps (no vent), as one tends to see on non-budget motherboards these days I think? I think an old VIA board from 2008 was the last time I saw an electrolytic so close the the CPU. Quote Changing mobo battery won't fix the issue. That just keeps BIOS/EFI settings stored since those aren't using NVRAM. Last time I saw a device requiring more than a few hundreds bytes of memory in battery backed SRAM (flash memory was limited at the time) was my test equipment from the early 90's. These batteries remain for their use of running the real-time clock (RTC) in order to maintain timekeeping after removing power, although settings stored alongside it to be reset via battery reseating or a specified jumper are handy indeed. Just some quick tiger-thoughts to take or leave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imperial Impact Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 KERNEL DATA INPAGE ERROR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 On 01/11/2016 at 8:20 AM, Draconas said: bit of a necro but looking for those That's a very nice CAD of an electrolytic cap, I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerMaster5 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Have you tried turning it off and on again? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Forgot about this thread. Now I'm getting this in the event log "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued." Computer usually freezes for about thirty seconds before it happens. I can move my mouse but do nothing else. Internet says it's a power setting, but I've changed the settings to what google says and still no dice. happened again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 50 minutes ago, Conker said: Forgot about this thread. Now I'm getting this in the event log "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued." Computer usually freezes for about thirty seconds before it happens. I can move my mouse but do nothing else. Internet says it's a power setting, but I've changed the settings to what google says and still no dice. happened again. Sounds like a HDD-related issue. Maybe your HDD shuts down for some reason, freezing the OS and triggering an auto-restart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted December 17, 2016 Author Share Posted December 17, 2016 21 hours ago, Jerry said: Sounds like a HDD-related issue. Maybe your HDD shuts down for some reason, freezing the OS and triggering an auto-restart? Possible. Google says it could be a motherboard driver issue. Windows just went through a ton of major updates on my end, so I'm leaning towards that right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 1 hour ago, Conker said: Possible. Google says it could be a motherboard driver issue. Windows just went through a ton of major updates on my end, so I'm leaning towards that right now. It's the "RAID" in this line that caught my attention: 23 hours ago, Conker said: "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued." But apparently many events can trigger this error so I won't speculate too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conker Posted December 17, 2016 Author Share Posted December 17, 2016 4 hours ago, Jerry said: It's the "RAID" in this line that caught my attention: But apparently many events can trigger this error so I won't speculate too much. Yeah from what I've read, it's super generic to the point of being mostly useless. "A thing happened that caused a thing. Sorry." I've updated the drivers on my motherboard and graphics card, so we'll see what happens. If it continues I'm thinking harddrive. I've also messed with a few settings that people suggested, though I can't actually remember any of them right now. I drank between then and now 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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